<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919</id><updated>2011-04-21T14:30:05.774-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Beta to Alpha.</title><subtitle type='html'>The journey begins.</subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>5</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919.post-425928580971939660</id><published>2009-04-12T09:23:00.001-07:00</published><updated>2009-04-12T09:23:45.276-07:00</updated><title type='text'></title><content type='html'>&lt;object classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,0,0" height="400" width="600"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.dyspxl.com/files/reader.swf"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;param 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class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/6803773075986813919-425928580971939660?l=betatoalpha.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/425928580971939660/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=6803773075986813919&amp;postID=425928580971939660' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/425928580971939660'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/425928580971939660'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/2009/04/blog-post.html' title=''/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919.post-3820854499411558024</id><published>2009-02-18T20:17:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2009-02-18T20:25:57.184-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Rooooute Setting...</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SZzfARWjnQI/AAAAAAAAACE/nG1SJC_zy8A/s1600-h/route-setting-sheffield.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 333px; height: 184px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SZzfARWjnQI/AAAAAAAAACE/nG1SJC_zy8A/s200/route-setting-sheffield.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5304359656886607106" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So I have been thinking a lot about route-setting lately.  I have been one of the primary route-setters for Adventure Rock for a little over a year now.  In that time I have put up some pretty fun, interesting, challenging routes (mostly at the 5.11- range).&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I would like to try setting different level routes, but always am stuck at a caveat as far as what makes a route "easy" or "hard"&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are these things to balance.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;1.  height of the moves&lt;br /&gt;2.  body tension of the moves&lt;br /&gt;3.  effective grip and size of the holds&lt;br /&gt;4.  body positioning&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I believe that certain surfaces and holds lend themselves to flowing a certain way, which ends up causing similar routes if used.  It is my goal to make interesting routes which are unique.  To this end sometimes my routes are well-received, other times they are not executed perhaps as well as i would like.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It is difficult for me because I enjoy all climbs, whether they are flowing or not.  I enjoy the challenge of "solving" them.  I am definitely interested in progressing as a setter though! = )&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;-Z&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/6803773075986813919-3820854499411558024?l=betatoalpha.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/3820854499411558024/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=6803773075986813919&amp;postID=3820854499411558024' title='1 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/3820854499411558024'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/3820854499411558024'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/2009/02/rooooute-setting.html' title='Rooooute Setting...'/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SZzfARWjnQI/AAAAAAAAACE/nG1SJC_zy8A/s72-c/route-setting-sheffield.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919.post-8920898324891622598</id><published>2009-01-13T19:09:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T19:33:22.626-08:00</updated><title type='text'>The slow season...</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SW1ZncMkjPI/AAAAAAAAAB0/2liwcQ1XA3I/s1600-h/silos.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 388px; height: 196px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SW1ZncMkjPI/AAAAAAAAAB0/2liwcQ1XA3I/s200/silos.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290983671348890866" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:85%;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The 65 foot silos of Bloomington, IL's Upper Limits gym which we will be scaling this weekend!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This is a sad time of the year for climbing.  Trips are virtually impossible to make with midwest weather conditions, and the release of climbing movies to get one psyched is nil.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;Thankfully there is a shining light.  Competitions.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;Some friends (both new and old) of mine and myself will be heading down to Upper Limits 14th Annual Hangdog competition this weekend.  We will be entering the Advanced category (up to 5.11 - ).  I am very excited to compete and for the opportunity to climb new styles and routes!  I am also excited to meet some of the southern illinois climbers who will be also competing.&lt;/span&gt;  &lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've been training hard at other gyms this past week, at Boulders and of course Vertical Endeavors Warrenville.  I'm getting to know more and more people at each gym which is awesome, because it makes the climbing community seem smaller and smaller!  Everyone knows each other!&lt;/span&gt;  &lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Next weekend I am even more excited for our home gym, Adventure Rock's 10th annual Quick on the Draw competition, it will be great to climb with friends and again see how we stack up against each other!&lt;/span&gt;  &lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;It's kind of sad right now because they are starting to strip all the walls and boulder problems, but also exciting because it means new excellent opportunities to try new routes, learn new moves, ect.&lt;/span&gt;  &lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I am hoping our gym will do 2 things:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SW1ccTV3ymI/AAAAAAAAAB8/mDNLckP83tw/s1600-h/Peanuts.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SW1ccTV3ymI/AAAAAAAAAB8/mDNLckP83tw/s200/Peanuts.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290986778528303714" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;1. Purchase new hold sets for the competitions, always fun as a route-setter = )&lt;br /&gt;2.  Build some of the structural geometric elements (can't remember the name!) which you can attach holds to, making things vastly more overhanging.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Looking forward!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;-Zachary&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/6803773075986813919-8920898324891622598?l=betatoalpha.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/8920898324891622598/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=6803773075986813919&amp;postID=8920898324891622598' title='1 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/8920898324891622598'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/8920898324891622598'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/2009/01/slow-season.html' title='The slow season...'/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SW1ZncMkjPI/AAAAAAAAAB0/2liwcQ1XA3I/s72-c/silos.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919.post-5849350366509522073</id><published>2009-01-09T17:25:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-09T17:47:03.377-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Animals Who Need Big Kisses</title><content type='html'>&lt;span style="font-size:130%;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://animalsneedkisses.wordpress.com/"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;http://animalsneedkisses.wordpress.com/&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SWf6HW3hTaI/AAAAAAAAABM/OD4A6g_CR1k/s1600-h/crab.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 393px; height: 134px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SWf6HW3hTaI/AAAAAAAAABM/OD4A6g_CR1k/s200/crab.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289471291674414498" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This site is about oft-overlooked cute animals who as the author says "are in need of a loving kiss."&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;File this under pretty ridiculous but very amusing sites.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I felt it necessary to impart some of my animal knowledge upon the masses.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It doesn't hurt the author took the time to e-mail me either:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:85%;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt;Hey Zach, &lt;/span&gt; &lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt; &lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt; Thanks for checking out my blog! I'm glad you like it and hope you will continue checking in, I've got some good ones in the can... Please tell anyone and everyone whom you think might enjoy it about it, and I hope you'll continue to comment as somebody who actually knows what they're talking about, obviously, makes for a very amusing counterpoint. :) &lt;/span&gt; &lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt; &lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt; - Will &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Thanks Will!  Awesome site!&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/6803773075986813919-5849350366509522073?l=betatoalpha.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/5849350366509522073/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=6803773075986813919&amp;postID=5849350366509522073' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/5849350366509522073'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/5849350366509522073'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/2009/01/animals-who-need-big-kisses.html' title='Animals Who Need Big Kisses'/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_V7_jyb4-sBk/SWf6HW3hTaI/AAAAAAAAABM/OD4A6g_CR1k/s72-c/crab.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803773075986813919.post-3600095362225976991</id><published>2009-01-09T16:48:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-09T17:47:59.357-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Things that need to die in the year 2009</title><content type='html'>&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;#1 Funny Online Videos with 3 instant replays in slow motion and slow sound.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt; Seriously.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;I may have laughed the first time.  But definitely not the second, third or fourth.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;And people with slowed down Satan voices are not scary.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"&gt;That said.  Balls in the face are always good for a laugh.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="320" height="266" class="BLOG_video_class" id="BLOG_video-be19f356f6a9f77a" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/get_player"&gt;&lt;param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF"&gt;&lt;param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;param name="flashvars" value="flvurl=http://v3.nonxt3.googlevideo.com/videoplayback?id%3Dbe19f356f6a9f77a%26itag%3D5%26app%3Dblogger%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1330304300%26sparams%3Did,itag,ip,ipbits,expire%26signature%3D16E0D340116D69470F1844116975DF08CC697FA7.68320C0AE5233D032C810283B8ACAD04AF5E9E09%26key%3Dck1&amp;amp;iurl=http://video.google.com/ThumbnailServer2?app%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dbe19f356f6a9f77a%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw160%26sigh%3D1eMy7cKWqbj9yCWw79ivVbDNBak&amp;amp;autoplay=0&amp;amp;ps=blogger"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/get_player" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"width="320" height="266" bgcolor="#FFFFFF"flashvars="flvurl=http://v3.nonxt3.googlevideo.com/videoplayback?id%3Dbe19f356f6a9f77a%26itag%3D5%26app%3Dblogger%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1330304300%26sparams%3Did,itag,ip,ipbits,expire%26signature%3D16E0D340116D69470F1844116975DF08CC697FA7.68320C0AE5233D032C810283B8ACAD04AF5E9E09%26key%3Dck1&amp;iurl=http://video.google.com/ThumbnailServer2?app%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dbe19f356f6a9f77a%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw160%26sigh%3D1eMy7cKWqbj9yCWw79ivVbDNBak&amp;autoplay=0&amp;ps=blogger"allowFullScreen="true" /&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/6803773075986813919-3600095362225976991?l=betatoalpha.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='enclosure' type='video/mp4' href='http://www.blogger.com/video-play.mp4?contentId=be19f356f6a9f77a&amp;type=video%2Fmp4' length='0'/><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/feeds/3600095362225976991/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=6803773075986813919&amp;postID=3600095362225976991' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/3600095362225976991'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6803773075986813919/posts/default/3600095362225976991'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://betatoalpha.blogspot.com/2009/01/things-that-need-to-die-in-year-2009.html' title='Things that need to die in the year 2009'/><author><name>zjoseph</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>
